Journey to the Oruro Carnival: Welcome to Copacabana

And then, there it is. Copacabana.

Not the Brazilian beach party, but something altogether more sacred and serene. This small town of about 6,000 people sits cradled between two hills on the shores of Lake Titicaca, its white-washed buildings gleaming in the high-altitude sun.

Copacabana is the kind of place that grabs you slowly. It's not love at first sight—it's love at first breath of the crisp lake air, at first glimpse of the endless blue water stretching toward the horizon, at first taste of fresh trout from the lake's depths.

1. The Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana

The crown jewel of the town is the Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana, a stunning white Moorish-influenced church that dominates the main square.

Built in the 16th century, this basilica houses the revered statue of the Virgin of Copacabana, Bolivia's patron saint. The Virgin is dark-skinned, carved in wood by an indigenous artist named Francisco Tito Yupanqui, and she draws pilgrims from across the country.

The Car Blessings: Here's something you won't see anywhere else. In the plaza in front of the basilica, locals line up their vehicles—cars, trucks, even long-distance buses—to be blessed by a priest. The vehicles are decorated with flowers and ribbons, and the blessing often concludes with a bottle of beer poured ceremoniously over the hood. I watched a brand-new minivan receive its holy water, the family beaming with pride as their investment was sanctified for safe travels.

2. The Boat Trip to Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna

No visit to Copacabana is complete without crossing the lake to the legendary Island of the Sun.

Getting There:

Boats depart daily from Copacabana's harbor, usually in the morning and early afternoon. The journey takes about 1.5 to 2 hours across the shimmering waters of Titicaca.

Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun):

According to Inca mythology, this is where the sun was born. The creator god Viracocha commanded the sun, moon, and stars to rise from the depths of the lake to illuminate the world.

The island is divided into two main areas:

• North Side: Home to the most significant archaeological sites, including the Chincana (a maze-like ruin) and the Temple of the Sun
• South Side: The main village of Yumani, with its famous Inca Stairs (206 steps leading down to the harbor) and the Fountain of Youth—a spring where travelers drink hoping for renewal

Entry Fees: You'll pay a small community fee (around 10-20 Bolivianos) upon arrival. Bring cash in small denominations.

Isla de la Luna (Island of the Moon):

The smaller sister island, dedicated to the moon goddess. It once housed a convent for the Mamaconas, chosen women who served the Inca elite. If you have time, it's well worth the visit for a deeper dive into Inca cosmology.

3. The Calvary Hill Climb (Cerro Calvario)

For the best view in town, hike up Cerro Calvario, the hill that watches over Copacabana.

The Experience:

The climb is steep—your lungs will certainly feel the altitude—but the reward is extraordinary. The path is marked by 14 Stations of the Cross, and at the summit, you'll find a series of crosses where pilgrims leave offerings and pray.

Why Go:

• Panoramic views of the town, the lake, and the surrounding mountains
• Sunset is magical, with the light painting the water in gold and purple
• Spiritual energy is palpable, with local Aymara traditions blending with Catholic devotion

Tip: Start the climb about an hour before sunset. Bring water, go slowly, and just sit at the top for a while. This was, without question, my most memorable moment in Copacabana.

4. The Local Market

Copacabana's market, near the main square, is a sensory explosion. Stalls overflow with:

• Hand-woven textiles and alpaca wool goods
• Fresh fruits and vegetables from the Yungas valleys
• Street food like salteñas (Bolivian empanadas) and api (hot purple corn drink)
• Artisanal crafts and souvenirs

Take time to wander, practice your bargaining skills, and soak in the rhythm of daily life.

Lunch by the lake is practically mandatory. The waterfront restaurants all promise "the best view of Lake Titicaca," and for once, they're not exaggerating.

What to eat:

• Trucha (trout) - Fresh from the lake, usually served grilled or fried with rice and potatoes
• Quinoa soup - Nutritious and warming at altitude
• Llajua - Spicy Bolivian salsa that accompanies most meals
• Pastel de quinua - A quinoa cake that's a local specialty

I climbed to the upper floor of a modest restaurant, sat by the window, and watched the boats bob lazily in the harbor while the sun played on the water. The food was perfectly fine—but honestly, the view was the main course.

Copacabana isn't just a destination—it's also the launching point for the journey deeper into Bolivia. To reach La Paz by road, you'll need to cross the Strait of Tiquina, where the lake narrows dramatically.

At Tiquina, vehicles are loaded onto small barges while passengers cross separately in motorboats—a 10-minute crossing that feels like a mini-adventure in itself. But that's a story for the next chapter of this journey.

Starting in Puno, stopping at the hidden Playa de Yunguyo, crossing at Kasani, and arriving in Copacabana—this isn't just a route. It's a gradual immersion into the heart of the altiplano.

The Playa de Yunguyo taught me something important: the best travel experiences are often the ones you stumble upon, not the ones you plan. If I'd rushed straight to the border, I would have missed that peaceful hour by the lake, watching local life unfold at its own unhurried pace.

And Copacabana? It surprised me completely. I'd heard about it as a transit point, a necessary stop on the way to La Paz or back to Puno. But it's so much more than that.

It's a place where the sacred meets the everyday, where pilgrims and backpackers share the same cobblestone streets, where the lake seems to hold millennia of stories beneath its surface. The basilica, the islands, the hilltop crosses, the blessed cars, the trout lunches with million-dollar views—all of it comes together to create something quietly unforgettable.

But this is only half the story. From Copacabana, the road pushes deeper into Bolivia—first to the narrow Tiquina Strait, where the lake squeezes into a channel and you cross by barge and motorboat, then onward to the dizzying heights of La Paz, a city that tumbles into a canyon like nowhere else on earth. Each mile reveals a new layer of this extraordinary country, and the adventure is just beginning.

Take my advice: Don't rush this crossing. Stop at the beach in Yunguyo. Stay a night in Copacabana—or two. Climb the hill at sunset. Take the boat to Isla del Sol. Let the altitude slow you down and the lake views open you up. This gateway to Bolivia deserves more than just a border crossing—it deserves a moment of your attention.

Next chapter: Crossing the Tiquina Strait, arriving in La Paz, and exploring the otherworldly Valley of the Moon.